Recipes

Dishes I’ve actually cooked — usually several times — until they worked. Each one is paired with a story about where it comes from.

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Cook · Italy

A slow Neapolitan ragù, tested over a stack of Sundays, with the substitution that actually held up.

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Cook · Mexico

Mole negro’s depth without the all-day marathon — what to skip and what you can’t.

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Cook · Japan

The batter ratio and griddle moves that separate fluffy okonomiyaki from a sad pancake.

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Cook · Spain

The three-bite Gilda, plus a tortilla with the inside still loose, the Basque way.

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Cook · Morocco

Preserved lemon, olives, and the layering order that keeps the chicken from drying out.

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Cook · Vietnam

The broth is the whole point. Here’s how to get it clear, deep, and worth the wait.

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Cook · France

Coq au vin the bouchon way — fewer shortcuts, far more flavor.

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Cook · Thailand

Northern Thailand’s coconut-curry noodles, crispy noodle nest and all.